Diamonds are our most treasured gemstone and have been a symbol of romance for generations. But different diamonds offer various qualities. The cut and shape of a diamond greatly affects its appearance. Here’s what to look for in a diamond, and some of the intricacies you might want to consider.
Light performance in diamonds
Before we get into different shapes, we have to first understand the principles of light performance in diamonds. When light enters a diamond, it interacts with the stone’s facets – the flat surfaces that reflect and refract light. The interplay of these result in a diamond’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
- The ‘brilliance’ of a diamond refers to the white light reflected from the diamond. A well-cut stone with high brilliance effectively reflects light.
- Fire refers to the dispersion of light into its spectral colors. This is what leads to flashes of color when you move a diamond – the effect which is sometimes most eye-catching.
- Scintillation refers to a diamond’s sparkle, resulting from the interplay of light and shadow created by the facets (the flat surfaces).
Different shapes have unique characteristics that influence the brilliance, fire, and scintillation of diamonds. As an example, Best Brilliance offers a guide of diamond shapes with more information on the different shapes below.
The Round Brilliant Cut
The round diamond, or brilliant cut diamond, is the most widely used diamond shape for engagement rings. It has 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion. The cut is engineered for optimal light performance, with its arrangement and angles meticulously calculated for brilliance and fire. The round shape allows for maximum light reflection due to the symmetrical design. As light enters the diamond, it bounces around the stone before exiting through the top.
The perfect symmetry minimizes light leakage, ensuring most of the light is reflected to the eye, resulting in that famous diamond sparkle. Round cut diamonds are popular choices for engagement rings, and there are a range of both natural and lab grown diamonds to choose from.
The Princess Cut
The princess cut is characterised by its square shape and sharp corners, and is the second most popular behind the brilliant cut diamond. It typically features 76 facets, which contribute to its similarly remarkable light performance. The intricate facet arrangement enhances brilliance and fire. These diamonds have a wonderful sparkle but don’t always reflect light as efficiently due to their angular design. The princess cut has been particularly popular with celebrities over the years, with Jennifer Aniston, Victoria Beckham, and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge all receiving princess cut engagement rings. Princess cuts are available in a range of carats and styles of ring.
The Oval Cut
The oval cut is an elongated version of the round diamond. Its shape creates an illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for those looking for a large appearance without the traditionally large carat weight. The oval cut is designed to maximize brilliance through its symmetrical shape.
The Cushion Cut
The cushion cut is also known as the pillow cut, combining a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners. Although vintage in style, it’s had a resurgence in popularity. The cut’s larger facets tend to emphasize larger flashes of light and brilliance, giving the diamond a softer sparkle. The cut’s fire is sometimes not as great as more modern cuts due to the larger facets which can be susceptible to light leakage.
The Marquise Cut
The marquise cut has pointed ends in an elongated shape, and is designed to maximize carat weight while catching the eye. The shape allows for impressive brilliance due to the amount of facets (normally 58). Some marquise cuts offer exquisite sparkle, and if the placement and proportions are right, it can offer significant fire.
The Pear Cut
The pear cut features a large surface and rounded bottom, allowing for significant brilliance and fire. It’s intended to combine the best features of the oval and marquise cuts. The pear cut is also known as the teardrop shape, offering a distinctive silhouette that’s both elegant and unique. These diamonds can be particularly stunning when set in a way that emphasizes the tapered end. The pear cut is a popular choice for lab grown diamonds, as well as traditional diamonds.
Choosing the right shape
The shape of a diamond plays an important role in its sparkle. The round cut remains the top choice for brilliance, but each shape offers its unique charm and characteristics. When choosing a diamond, consider how the shape affects its appearance, brilliance, and fire. You might prefer the classic elegance of a round cut or the special allure of a pear cut, and understanding their nuances can help you choose the perfect diamond. Different diamonds can reflect different, personal styles. Whichever shape you go with, you’ve likely chosen something to cherish for a lifetime.
